Camera portachiavi

 

Yarn:
Schachermayr Catania.
Hook:
2,5 mm

Abbreviations:
<< sc = simple crochet
<< *x = repeat x times
<< slst = slipstitch
<< hdc = half double crochet
<< ch = chain
--- I have used 1 piece 4 mm safety eye, a little bit of fiberfill and some black
embroidery threed

Stitch explanation:
Decrease (sc2tog) - Insert hook into a st and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next
st and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Decrease (sc3tog) - Insert hook into a st and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next
st and draw up a loop, repeat one more time. Yarn over, draw through all 4 loops on
hook

PATTERN

LENSE: start with soft pink color
1. row: magic ring and 6 sc into it.
2. row: 2sc in each st around (12)
3. row: (sc in next st, 2sc in next st)*6 (18)
4. row: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2sc in next st)*6 (24) change to white color
5. row: sc in next st, 2sc in next st, (sc in each of next 3 sts, 2sc in next st)*5, sc in each of next 2 sts
(30)
6. row: (sc in each of next 8 sts, sc2tog)*3 (27)
---slst into next st and cut the yarn leaving long yarntail for sewing.

CAMERA BODY:
1. ch20, from 2nd st from hook 18 sc, 3sc to the last st, back on the other side of chain 18 sc, 2sc to
the last st, slst to the first st of row.
2. crochet only into the back loops in this row. Ch1, sc in each st around, slst to first st (41)
3-5. Ch1, sc in each st around, slst to first st (41) change color
6-8. Ch1, sc in each st around, slst to first st (41) change back to original color
9-12. Ch1, sc in each st around, slst to first st (41) change color to the top color of the camera
13-14. Ch1, sc in each st around, slst to first st (41)
15. crochet only into the back loops this row. Sc2tog, sc in each of next 17 sts, sc3tog, sc in each of
next 17 sts, sc2tog. (37)
---slst into next st and cut the yarn leaving long yarntail for sewing. 

CAMERA BUTTON:
ch4 and starting from the 3rd st from hook hdc in each of next 2 sts.
--- cut the yarn leaving long yarntail for sewing.

HANGER:
ch16, from the 2nd st from hook slst 15 times, cut yarn leaving long yarntail for sewing.
--- Attach the safety eye, and embroider some cute kawaii face details onto the lense,
than sew it up on the camera body.
--- Fill the camera body with just a little bit of fiberfill, than sew the top edges
together. You may use only the front loops of sts by sewing.
--- Sew up the camera button on the top of the camera.
--- Sew up the hanger on the corner of the camera.
Now your Camera is done!

Cuore portachiavi

https://happyamigurumi.blogspot.com/2016/02/preparations-for-valentines-day-crochet.html 

Materials:

2,5 crochet hook
Yarn: Katia Bamboo, DK/8ply
yarn needle
stuffing

Abbreaviations used:

"magic ring": crochet over an adjustable loop wih 6 single crochet, then pulling on the yarn tail until there is no hole left
"Neat finish"- one method to finish a toy piece in amigurumi. See the photos below.

Sc - single crochet
Inc - Increase
Invdec - invisible decrease

1) 6 sc into magic ring (6)
2) 6 x Inc (12)
3-4) sc all around (12)
fasten off

make another one:


1) 6 sc into magic ring (6)
2) 6 x Inc (12)
3-4) sc all around (12), don´t fasten off, you will join two parts together

Make the joining into next stitch of the end of the first part

You´ll have a new beginning of the row: hide the yarn tail by doing so: do you stitches over the yarn tail, by doing so, you don´t have to hide the yarn afterwards.

1) Make 12 sc on the first part and then 12 sc on the other part of the heart (24): NB! under both loops, there will be a little hole between two parts, we´ll come back later to close it up.

I use a yarn as a stitch marker of a new row.

2) 5 sc, Invdec, 10 sc, Invdec, 5 sc

3) 4 sc, Invdec, 9 sc, Invdec, 5 sc

4) 4 sc, Invdec, 8 sc, Invdec, 4 sc, stuff

5) 4 sc, Invdec, 7 sc, Invdec, 3 sc

6) 3 sc, Invdec, 6 sc, Invdec, 3 sc, from now on, try to stuff after every new row

7) 3 sc, Invdec, 5 sc, Invdec, 2 sc

8) 2 sc, Invdec, 4 sc, Invdec, 2 sc

Two rows before the finishing up:

9) 2 sc, Invdec, 3 sc, Invdec, 1 sc

10) 1 sc, Invdec, 1 sl.st. leave a lengh of yarn for "neat finish" and closing up the hole. For a "neat finish" : pick up all the sc left, one by one with the yarn needle and pull them together to have a neat and proper finish.

And also close up the hole:

Well done, your cute little heart is ready!

Gufo portachiavi

 Materials:
- yarn
- 2,5 mm crochet hook
- 7mm black safety eyes
- small piece of white felt
- glue
- fiberfill
- keychain

Abbreviations and techniques:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch
inc = increase = 2 sc into same st
dec = decrease = sc 2 together
[ ] = repeated pattern
( ) = number of stitches in the row


1. rnd: Ch 5, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 3 sc in next ch. Now work in remaining loops on
opposite side of ch, sc in next 2 ch, 2 sc in the last ch, sl st in first st. (10)
2. rnd: Chain 1, [inc], 2 sc, [inc] x 3, 2 sc, [inc] x 2, sl st in first st. (16)
3. rnd: Chain 1, sc, [inc], 2 sc, [sc, inc] x 3, 2 sc, [sc, inc] x 2, sl st in first st. (22)
4. rnd: Chain 1, [inc], 4 sc, [inc, 2 sc] x 3, 2 sc, [inc, 2 sc] x 2, sl st in first st. (28)
Continue crocheting in continuous spiral, meaning that don’t end the round with slip stitch any more but
continue straight to next round.
5. rnd: Working in back loops only for this round, sc in each sc around. (28)
6. rnd: Sc in each sc around. (28)
7. rnd: Sc in each sc around. (28)
8. rnd: [dec, 5 sc] x 4 (24)
9. rnd: Sc in each sc around. (24)
10. rnd: [dec, 4 sc] x 4. (20)
11. rnd: Sc in each sc around. (20)
12. rnd: [dec, 8 sc] x 2. (18)
13. rnd: Sc in each sc around. (18)

Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch but do not fasten off yet.

Wing (make 2):
 Chain 2, 3 sc in second chain from the hook (or you can also make this with 3 sc into magic loop)
 Work at first only back loops of the stitches. Chain 3, sl st into first sc, [ch 2, sl st into next st] x 2, ch 3.
 Now work on opposite side of the stitches; sl st into next sc, [ch 2, sl st into next sc] x 2.
Assembly:
 Cut two circles from the felt and cut also small slits into those. Put safety eyes through the slits. Put little
bit glue behind the felt circles and insert eyes between rounds 9 and 10.
 Stuff the owl. Sew the hole and with same yarn attach the keychain.
 Next sew the wings to the owl.
 With orange yarn embroider peak.
 Fasten off rest of the yarns.
Now your owl is ready. Easy I’d say :)

Mini zainetto portachiavi

 

http://handmadebyraine.com/mini-backpack/

Materials:

• 3,75 mm crochet hook
• DMC denim light blue and Lion Brand Jeans brown

Abbreviations:

• sc = single crochet
• st = stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• ch = chain

1. Make a magic ring and sc 8 times in the ring.
2. Increase in each st = 2 sc in each st – total 16 sc
3. Increase in every other st = 1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in 2nd st, repeat all around – total 24 sc
4. Increase in every 3rd st = 1 sc in 1st, 1 sc in 2nd, 2 sc in 3rd st, repeat all around – total 32 sc
5. sc in each st around – make 5 – 17 rounds
6. 1 sc in each 3 st, ch1 and skip 1 sc, 1 sc in each 3st, ch1 and skip 1 sc, repeat all around, you will have 8 string holes
7. sc in each st around – total 32 sc
8. sl st in each st around, fasten off
9. Backpack flap – repeat steps 1-3, then sl st in next 6 sc, 1 sc in each next 2 sc and 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each next 2 sc and 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each next 2 sc and 2sc in next, ch 5 to make a buttonhole, 1 sc in each next 2 sc and 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each next 2 sc and 2 sc in next, 1 sc in each next 2 sc and 2sc in next, sl st in first st
10. optional: you can add another round to the flap like my dark blue and brown backpacks have – sl st in each st and sc 5 in buttonhole chain space (I wanted to skip this row on light blue bag for different look)
11. attach the flap to bag with 6 slip stitches, don’t cut off yarn
12. Handle – ch 8 and sl st in stitch through main part and flap where you started attaching the flap, turn and sc 8 in ch space, sl st through flap and main part where you ended attaching the flap, fasten off.
13. Braided string – cut 3 strands each 30 cm (appr. 12 in) long, make a knot and braid strings, make an end knot, the braid should measure appr. 8 inches from one knot to the other
14. insert string through the holes of the bag
15. Backpack straps – with brown yarn ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across – total 12 sc, turn and sl st in each st
16. Use beginning and end yarn tails to sew strap on the back of the bag
17. Sew the button on 5th row from the top
18. Weave in all ends

Stellina portachiavi

 

moonysmindcraft

Here's what you'll need:

• Size E/4 crochet hook
• Worsted weight yarn of your preferred color
• Your preferred stuffing material
• 9-10mm solid black plastic safety eyes
• Small length of chain
• Split key ring
• Pink fabric marker

 I join my rounds for this project, but you don't have to.

Front/Back: Make 2

Rnd 1: 5sc in magic ring (5sc)

Rnd 2: inc in each sc (10sc)

Rnd 3: [sc, inc] 5 times (15sc)

*3sc, ch 1, turn (3sc)

3sc, ch 1, turn (3sc)

dec across all three sc^ (1sc)*

^To do the decrease, insert the hook into the first sc and pull up a loop. Insert the hook into the next sc and pull up another loop. Then insert the hook into the last sc and pull up another loop so there is a total of four loops, then yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.

 

 

Fasten off, reattach yarn in the next free sc of your circle.
Repeat ** for each of the remaining points, don't fasten off after the 5th point.
Instead, ch 1 and then sc around the whole star evenly for one row and fasten off.
Attach two eyes to your front side and then sew the front and back together with wrong sides together, using the front loops from either side only.

 

Don't forget to stuff before completely closing up your seam.
After it's all sewn up, sew your bit of chain to the top of the star and add a little "blush" to its cheeks with your fabric marker. And then you're done! Super easy.

Fungo portachiavi

 

missdolkapots

For this project you will need:
– scraps of beige and red yarn (or colors of your choice)
– light brown and off white felt
– fiberfill for stuffing
– glue gun, or fabric glue
– yarn needle

The size of the mushroom is approximatively 3 inches, crocheted with a 2.75mm hook (the larger the size of the hook, the larger your mushroom will be).

Abbreviations:
rnd = round
sc = single crochet
inc = increase
dec = decrease
blo = back loops only
flo = front loops only
ch = chain
tr = treble

PATTERN
Stem:
With beige yarn, make a magic ring
Rnd 1: 5 sc in the center of the ring (5)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (10)
Rnd 3: [1 sc, inc] 5 times (15)
Rnd 4: blo, sc in each st around (15)
Rnd 5: [5 sc, dec] 2 times, 1 sc (13)
Rnd 6: sc in each st around (13)
Optional: I put a little piece of cardboard at the bottom to keep it flat
Rnd 7: [4 sc, dec] 2 times, 1 sc (11)
Rnd 8 to 9: sc in each st around (11)
Rnd 10: [3 sc, dec] 2 times, 1 sc (9)
rnd 11 to 13: sc in each st around (9)
Rnd 14: ch 3, 2 tr in same st, 3 tr in each st around, join to first tr (26)
Fasten off, and stuff your stem with fiberfill. Cut a circle in a piece of light brown felt, a little smaller than the circumference of your last row. Glue it on your mushroom then resume your work.

 

Cap:
With red yarn, make a magic ring
Rnd 1: 5 sc in the center of the ring (5)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (10)
Rnd 3: [1 sc, inc] 5 times (15)
Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 5 times (20)
Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] 5 times (25)
Rnd 6: inc, 24 sc (26)
Rnd 7 to 8: sc in each st around (26)
Rnd 9: flo, sc in each st around (26)
Fasten off, and leave a long tail for sewing. Insert your remaining thread on the other side of the cap to start embroidering. Sew around using the stitches underneath the cap and front loops of the stem. You can add stuffing half way through the sewing, but don’t stuff too much or the bottom of the cap will not be flat. Fasten off, and hide your loose threads by embroidering them within stitches.

Portachiavi Coccinella

 

 2014 © maidireamigurumi.blogspot.it

Materials
- Hook 2.75
- Yarn needle and scissors
- Crochet thread size 3 in black red and white
- Black piece of felt
- Stuff material
- Keychain materials (a little ring and a lobster hook with black cord)
- Pliers to open the little ring
- Pins for assembling
- Bijoux glue

Abbreviations & symbols
sc single crochet
inc single crochet increase, work 2 sc’s in the same stitch
dec single crochet decrease, single crochet 2 together (sc2tog)
sc BLO single crochet in Back Loop Only
ch+sl
st
chain at the beginning of the row and slip stitch at the end. 

Ladybug Body
With red yarn, work these rounds in circle (ch at the beginning of the row and sl st at the
end)
1. 6 sc in magic ring [6]
2. 6 inc [12]
3. *1 sc, 1 inc **, repeat from * to ** 6 times [18]
4. *2 sc, 1 inc **, repeat from * to ** 6 times [24]
5-7. 24 sc [24]
Switch color yarn to black.
8. *2 sc, 1 dec **, repeat from * to ** 6 times BLO [18]
9. *1 sc, 1 dec **, repeat from * to ** 6 times [12]
Stuff firmly
10. 6 dec [6]
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing firmly the last 6 stitches.

Ladybug head
With black yarn
1. Work 3 ch. 1 sc on the second chain from hook. 4 sc in next chain. Turn
your work 180° clockwise and work 3 sc in next chain. Slip stitch on the first
stitch of the row. [8]
2. 1 ch, 8 sc, 1 sl st on the firts stitch of the row. [8] Fasten off leaving a long
tail for sewing.
On the right you can find the graphical representation of these rounds. 

Assembling
- Using pins, put the head on the body of the ladybug and sew it firmly.
- Before cutting the thread, use it to embroider the black line on the ladybug body.
- Cut 7 rounded pieces of black felt and glue it on the ladybug body, one near the head, 3
on the black line’s right and 3 on the black line’s left.
- Embroider 2 little eyes with white yarn, using your favourite technique. I used the french
knot technique.
- With pliers, open the little ring and put it through the first round of the body. Join the
lobster hook with black cord and complete your keychain.

Portachiavi Anguria

 

1dogwoof.com

• 1 package of Lion Brand BonBons in Beach, using the red, green, yellow, white and black
• 1 Clover USA crochet hook C/2.75mm*
• 1 6mm safety eye
• scissors
• tapestry needle
• ball chains with clasps*
• lobster claw swivel clasps*

ABBREVIATIONS

• sl st – slip stitch
• ch – chain stitch
• sc – single crochet
• sp – space
• corner – [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc]
• BLO – back loops only
• sc2tog – single crochet decrease: Insert hook into front loop of next st. Without yarning over, insert hook into front loop of next st. Yarn over. Pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining loop on hook.

PATTERN NOTES

• Skill level Beginner.
• Gauge doesn’t matter on this project, as long as it’s tight enough to prevent the stuffing from coming out.
• Pattern is worked in seamed rounds.
• First st in each round is worked into same st as join.

Watermelon Amigurumi Keychain Instructions

Round 1: (in GREEN) Ch 14. Work 1 sc into the 2nd ch from hook. Work 1 sc in each of next 11 st, [1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc] in next ch (this turns the corner), 1 sc in each of next 11 st, [1 sc, 2ch, 1sc, 2 ch] in last ch. Join to first sc with sl st.
Round 2: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each of next 13 st, 1 corner in ch 2 sp, 1 sc in next st, 1 corner in ch 2 sp, 1 sc in each of next 13 st, 1 corner in ch 2 sp, 1 sc in next st, 1 corner in ch 2 sp. Join to first sc with sl st.
Round 3: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each of next 14 st, 1 corner in ch 2 sp, 1 sc in each of next 3 st, 1 corner in ch 2 sp, 1 sc in each of next 15 st, 1 corner in ch 2 sp, 1 sc in each of next 3 st, 1 corner in ch 2 sp, 1 sc in next st. Join to first sc with sl st.
Round 4: Ch 1. In BLO, work 1 sc in each sc st around, skipping ch sp. Join to first sc with sl st. (44)
Round 5: Ch 1, Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first sc with sl st. (44)
Round 6: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each of next 4 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in next st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 17 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in next st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 13 st. Join to first sc with sl st. (40)
Round 7: (in WHITE) Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first sc with sl st. (40)
Round 8: (in RED) Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each of next 11 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 11 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st, 1 sc2tog. Join to first sc with sl st. (36)
Round 9: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first sc with sl st. (36)
Round 10: Ch 1. Work 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 9 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 9 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st. Join to first sc with sl st. (32)
Round 11: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first sc with sl st. (32)
Round 12: Ch 1. Work 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 7 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 7 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st. Join to first sc with sl st. (28)
Round 13: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first sc with sl st. (28)
Round 14: Ch 1. Work 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st. Join to first sc with sl st. (24)
Round 15: Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first sc with sl st. (24)

Add the eyes and mouth

• Eye – Insert safety eye between the 3rd and 4th red rounds, 2 st to the right of the sc2tog st.
• Wink – With black yarn, insert needle from inside out, between the 2nd and 3rd red rounds, 2 st to the left of the sc2tog st (starting point). Insert the needle outside in, between the 3rd and 4th red rounds, approximately the same width as the safety eye (middle point). Insert the needle inside out, between the 4th and 5th red rounds, directly above the starting point (end point). Insert the needle outside in, at the middle point, to complete the wink.
• Smile – Embroider on a smile centered and just slightly below the eyes.

Round 16: Ch 1. Work 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 3 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 3 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st. Join to first sc with sl st. (20)
Round 17: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first sc with sl st. (20)
Round 18: Ch 1. Work 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in next st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in next st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st. Join to first sc with sl st. (16)
Round 19: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first sc with sl st. (16)
Round 20: Ch 1. Work 2 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 4 st, 2 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 4 st. Join to first sc with sl st. (12)
** Stuff the watermelon firmly to fill out the shape.
Cut yarn, leaving a tail. Squeeze the round together, aligning the 4 sc to the 4sc. Use the mattress stitch to close. Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

Insert the ball chain clasp through any available stitch on the top of the watermelon. I used a needle to help things along – it takes some effort, but you can always find a small gap to get the chain through. Once the chain is attached, just close the ball chain around a lobster clasp and you’re all set!

On my first keychain, I created a loop at the top of the watermelon to insert the ball chain, but it looked a bit weird, so I adjusted to insert the ball chain straight through the top of the watermelon instead.

Christmas Slippers Socks

repeatcrafterme

Slipper Sock Pattern (make 2):
Magic ring, chain 1 and make 8 SC in ring, join to first SC, chain 1 (8 SC)
Round 2: 2 SC in first, SC in next, repeat around, join, chain 1 (12 SC)
Round 3: 2 SC in first, SC in next 2, repeat around, join, chain 1 (16 SC)
Round 4: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (16 SC)
Round 5: 2 SC in first, SC in next 3, repeat around, chain 1 (20 SC)
Round 6: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (20 SC)
Round 7: 2 SC in first, SC in next 4, repeat around, chain 1 (24 SC)
Round 8-15: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (24 SC)

Now we are going to work in rows to make the heel. If you want to make the slipper socks bigger, now is a good place to continue a few more rounds before starting on the heel.

ROW 16: SC in first 12, chain 1, turn (12 SC)
Row 17-20: SC in each stitch across, chain 1, turn
Row 21: SC in first 2, SC Decrease 4x, SC in last 2, chain 1, turn (8 SC)
Row 22: SC in first, SC Decrease 3x, SC in last, chain 1, turn (5 SC)
Row 23: SC Decrease, SC, SC Decrease, chain 1, turn (3 SC)
Row 24: SC Decrease (skip over middle stitch), chain 1, turn

Now go back into working in rounds
Round 25: SC in each stitch around making a total of 32 stitches (do the best you can on rough edges), join, chain 1 (32 SC)
Round 26-27: SC around making a SC Decrease in two corners, join, chain 1 (see photos)
Round 28-35 or desired length: SC in each stitch around, join, chain 1
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Round 36: Reverse SC or crab stitch

Antlers Pattern (make 2):
With dark brown yarn…
Chain 10, Slip stitch in second chain from hook and in next 3, chain 4, slip stitch in second chain from hook and in next two, slip stitch to next spot in starting chain, slip stitch in next, chain 3, slip stitch in second chain from hook and in next, slip stitch to next spot in starting chain and the rest of the way down the starting chain. Fasten off and stew onto sides of socks.

Make a Red pom-pom for the nose!

Sew on two black buttons for the eyes.

Stella

Worsted weight yarn (Shown in Loops and Thread Impeccable Solids)
o Butterscotch (120 yards)

•  G (4.00mm) hook or size needed to obtain a firm fabric

•  Tapestry Needle
•  Stitch Marker
• Stuffing
•  Eyes

o 15mm black safety eyes OR
o Black felt (See tutorial at the end of the pattern)

Notes

• All pieces are worked through the back loops only.
•  The pattern is worked in continuous spiral. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of the round.

Points (Make 5)
 
Round 1: SC 4 in Magic Ring— 4 sts
Round 2: (SC 2 in next st) 4 times— 8 sts
Round 3: SC in each st around
Round 4: (SC 2 in next st, SC in next st) 4 times—12 sts
Round 5: SC in each st around
Round 6: (SC 2 in next st, SC in next 2 sts) 4 times—16 sts
Round 7: SC in each st around
Round 8: (SC 2 in next st, SC in next 3 sts) 4 times—20 sts
Round 9: SC in each st around
Round 10: (SC 2 in next st, SC in next 4 sts) 4 times—24 sts
Round 11: SC in each st around
Round 12: (SC 2 in next st, SC in next 5 sts) 4 times—28 sts
Round 13: SC in each st around
Round 14: (SC 2 in next st, SC in next 6 sts) 4 times—32 sts
Round 15: SC in each st around
Round 16: (SC 2 in next st, SC in next 7 sts) 4 times—36 sts
Fasten off with long tail. Do not fasten off the fifth point; continue to work for the body

FRONT
Joining the next point with SC2tog

Round 1: (SC2tog, SC in next 7 sts) 2 times; to join next point, (SC2tog in next point, SC in next 7 sts,
SC2tog, SC in next 7 sts). Repeat for each point— 80 sts
To join in a round, SC2tog the first 2 sts of round 1, this is the first SC2tog of round 2
Round 2: (SC2tog, SC in next 6 sts) 10 times—70 sts
Round 3: (SC2tog, SC in next 12 sts) 5 times—65 sts
Round 4: (SC2tog, SC in next 11 sts) 5 times—60 sts
Round 5: (SC2tog, SC in next 10 sts) 5 times—55 sts
Round 6: (SC2tog, SC in next 9 sts) 5 times—50 sts
Round 7: (SC2tog, SC in next 3 sts) 10 times— 40 sts
Round 8: (SC2tog, SC in next 2 sts) 10 times— 30 sts
Round 9: (SC2tog, SC in next st) 10 times—20 sts
Round 10: (SC2tog) 10 times—10 sts
Round 11: (SC2tog) 5 times—5 sts
Fasten off

Back
To join the yarn, locate the junction of the points where there is no yarn tail and attach the yarn to the first stitch of the point to the left.

Follow the instructions as for the Front.
After round 8, stop and sew up the holes created by where the points are connected.
If using safety eyes, attach them now the front of the star at round 7. Felt eyes will be attached after the star is finished.
Stuff the star, beginning with the points. For best results, start with a little bit of stuffing in each point and slowly fill up each point. Once all of the points are stuffed, begin stuff the body.
Continue working, stopping and adding a little more stuffing every few rounds until the end.
Fasten off.
Finishing
If using felt eyes, skip ahead to the tutorial at the end.
Weave in any loose ends

Candy Cane

MEASUREMENT
Approx 5½” [14 cm] long.
GAUGE
13 sc and 14 rows = 4” [10 cm].
Hook= 5 mm
INSTRUCTIONS
Coil (make 1 each in A and B)
Ch 40. 2 dc in 4th ch from hook. 3 dc in each ch to end of chain. Fasten off.
Twist Coils around each other to form Candy Cane. Bend slightly approx 2½” [6 cm]
from top. Using A, tack loosely to form curve. With A, make hanging loop.

Luci di Natale

Materials
G Hook
Worsted weight yarn in desired colors
Polyfil
Needle Safety Eyes (optional)
Black embroidery thread (optional)

Abbreviations
sc: single crochet
inc: 2 sc in one stitch
dec: 1 sc over two stitches

Directions
Make a 3 stitch magic ring
Row 1: Inc around (6)
Row 2: *sc 2, inc 1. Repeat from * (8)
Row 3: *sc 1, inc 1. Repeat from * (12)
Row 4: *sc 2, inc 1. Repeat from * (16)
Row 5: *sc 3, inc 1. Repeat from * (20)
Rows 6-8: sc around (20)
Row 9: *sc 3, dec 1. Repeat from * (16)
Row 10: *sc 2, dec 1. Repeat from * (12)

Attach safety eyes if desired. Stuff with Polyfil.

Row 11: dec around (6)
Row 12: switch to green yarn, sc around (6)
Row 13: sc around (6)
Break off yarn, weave in ends. Embroider eyes and mouth if desired.
To string together bulbs, begin a chain with desired color and chain through the top of a bulb every 10 inches or spaced however far apart you wish.

Pattern by Jill Watt www.dappertoad.com
Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/designers/jill-watt
Craftsy: http://www.craftsy.com/user/754812/pattern-store

Stitch

 

Materials
4 ply Monaco Acrylic yarn in black, salmon pink, blue and powder blue
Lion Brand wool ease in navy blue
Tapestry Needle
Crochet hook G
Fiberfill Stuffing

Pattern

HEAD:
using BLUE

rnd 1: Ch2, 7 sc in 2nd chain from hook [7]
rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around [14]
rnd 3: Sc in next st, 2 sc in st after, repeat til end [21]
rnd 4: Sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2scs in st after, repeat til end [28]
rnd 5: Sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2scs in st after, repeat til end [35]
rnd 6: Sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2scs in st after, repeat til end [42]
rnd 7: Sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2scs in st after, repeat til end [49]
rnd 8-13: Sc all around [49]
rnd 14: Sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2scs in st after, repeat til end [56]
rnd 15: Sc in each of the next 13 sts, 2scs in st after, repeat til end [60]
rnd 16: Sc all around [60]

using POWDER BLUE
rnd 17: Sc in each of the next 13 sts, sc2tog, repeat til end [56]
rnd 18: Sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, repeat til end [48]
rnd 19: Sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog, repeat til end [40]
rnd 20: Sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog, repeat til end [32]
rnd 21: Sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog, repeat til end [24]
rnd 22: Sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog, repeat til end [18]
fasten off. do not weave in the ends!!!!!

EYES

using POWDER BLUE
rnd 1: Ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook [8]
rnd 2: 2sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2hdc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in each of
the remaining 2 sts [16]
rnd 3: *Sc in next st, 2sc in st after* repeat 2x; *hdc in next st, 2hdc in st after* repeat
4x; *Sc in next st, 2sc in st after* repeat 2x [24]
fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

using BLACK
rnd 1: Ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook [5]
rnd 2: 2sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, 2sc in each of the remaining 2
sts [10]
fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

using WHITE
rnd 1: Ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook [4]
fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

NOSE

 
using NAVY BLUE
rnd 1: Ch2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook [6]
rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around [12]
rnd 3: Sc in next st, 2 sc in st after, repeat til end [18]
rnd 4: Sc all around [18]
fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

EARS:
INNER EAR

 
using SALMON PINK
rnd 1: ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook until the end [this makes 20sc], flip it to face
the opposite side and sc all around [this makes another 20 sc] [total: 40]
rnd 2: Sc in each of the next 12 sts, hdc in each of the next 6 sts, 2hdc in each of
the next 4 sts, hdc in each of the next 6 sts, sc in each of the last remaining 12 sts
[44]
rnd 3: Hdc in each of the next 10 sts, Dc in each of the next 10 sts, 2dc in each of
the next 4 sts, dc in each of the next 10 sts, hdc in each of the remaining 10 sts [48]
rnd 4-5: Sc all around [48]
fasten off leaving a really long tail for sewing

OUTER EAR
using BLUE
rnd 1: ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook until the end [this makes 20sc], flip it to face
the opposite side and sc all around [this makes another 20 sc] [total: 40]
rnd 2: Hdc in each of the next 12 sts, dc in each of the next 6 sts, 2dc in each of
the next 4 sts, dc in each of the next 6 sts, hdc in each of the last remaining 12 sts

[44]
rnd 3: Hdc in each of the next 10 sts, Dc in each of the next 10 sts, 2dc in each of
the next 4 sts, dc in each of the next 10 sts, hdc in each of the remaining 10 sts [48]
fasten off hiding all ends

BODY:

using BLUE
rnd 1: Ch2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook [6]
rnd 2: Sc in next st, 2 sc in st after, repeat til end [9]
rnd 3: 2 sc in each st around [18]
rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2scs in st after, repeat til end [27]
rnd 5: Sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2scs in st after, repeat til end [36]
rnd 6: Sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2scs in st after, repeat til end [45]
rnd 7: Sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2scs in st after, repeat til end [54]
note: the color blocking in this section does not always work out, so you can just
alternate the color blocking as: first bunch = normal, second bunch = moving 1sc
to the right for the color blocking, third bunch = moving 1 sc to the right for the
color blocking [all in reference to the original color blocking; and repeat this until
the last color blocking bunch]
rnd 8-12: [54]
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 18 sts
   using POWDER BLUE: Sc in each of the next 18 sts
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 18 sts
rnd 13: [45]
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog, 3x
   using POWDER BLUE: Sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog, 3x
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog, 3x
rnd 14-16: [45]
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 15 sts
   using POWDER BLUE: Sc in each of the next 15 sts
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 15 sts
rnd 17: [36]
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog, 3x
   using POWDER BLUE: Sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog, 3x
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog, 3x
rnd 18-21: [36]
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 12 sts
   using POWDER BLUE: Sc in each of the next 12 sts
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 12 sts

rnd 22: [27]
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog, 3x
   using POWDER BLUE: Sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog, 3x
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog, 3x
rnd 23-24: [27]
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 9 sts
   using POWDER BLUE: Sc in each of the next 9 sts
   using BLUE: Sc in each of the next 9 sts
fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

ARMS:

using BLUE
rnd 1: Ch2, 5 sc in 2nd chain from hook [5]
rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around [10]
rnd 3: Sc in next st, 2 sc in st after, repeat til end [15]
rnd 4-15: Sc all around [15]
fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

FINGERS:
using NAVY BLUE; make 4
ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook until end [3sc]
fasten off leaving a tail for sewing

LEGS:

using BLUE
rnd 1: Ch2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook [6]
rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around [12]
rnd 3: Sc in next st, 2 sc in st after, repeat til end [18]
rnd 4: Sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2scs in st after, repeat til end [24]
rnd 5-6: Sc all around [24]
rnd 7: Sc in each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog 3x, sc in each of the remaining 9 sts [21]
rnd 8: Sc in each of the next 7 sts, sc2tog 3x, sc in each of the remaining 8 sts [18]
rnd 9: Sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog 3x, sc in each of the remaining 6 sts [15]
rnd 10: through front loops, sc in each of the next 6 sts; through back loops, sc in
each of the next 3 sts; through front loops again, sc in each of the remaining 6 sts
[15]
rnd 11-15: Sc all around [15]
fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

TOES:
using NAVY BLUE; make 4

rnd 1: Ch2, 5 sc in 2nd chain from hook [5]
fasten off leaving a tail for sewing
“palm”
rnd 1: Ch2, 5 sc in 2nd chain from hook [5]
rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around [10]
fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

TAIL:
using BLUE

rnd 1: Ch2, 5 sc in 2nd chain from hook [5]
rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around [10]
rnd 3: Sc in next st, 2 sc in st after, repeat til end [15]
rnd 4: Sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2scs in st after, repeat til end [20]
rnd 5: Sc all around [20]
fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Assembly - use the “tail” of the body part being sewn unless stated otherwise

1. Sew on the fingers to the tip of the arm. make sure that you are only sewing the tip of the fingers [see
pictures below for reference]
2. sew on the “palms” of the feet to the bottom of the legs [see pictures below for reference]
3. sew on the tip of the toes aka the bottom of the circle to the legs. make sure that it’s proportioned to
your leg’s “palm” [see pictures below for reference]
4. sew on the white part of the eye to the black. sew the black part to the blue part. make sure that when
sewing the black part to the blue, it’s towards the bottom of it. do not cover the part where it’s made up
of hdc
5. sew on the inner ear to the outer ear. use the tail of the outer ear in sewing the inner ear. note that you
should NOT cut off the excess tail from sewing. this will be used again
6. sew on the ears to the head of your stitch! use the excess tail from when you sewed on the inner ear to
the outer ear
7. semi-stuff the head just to get a gist of the shape
8. sew on the left eye first. make sure it’s proportioned to the ears
9. stuff the nose
10. sew on the nose approximately 2 sts away from the eye [horizontally], to make it proportioned-ish, i
aligned it as well to the black part of the eye
11. sew on the right eye with respect to the left eye and the nose
12. stuff the entire head completely
13. stuff the arms, legs and tail as well now. make sure that you do NOT overstuff them

14. sew on the tail and legs to the bottom of the body. make sure that the legs are half within the powder
blue part of the body and the other half is on the blue part of the body. make sure than when sewing the
tail, it’s equidistant from the right and left leg.
15. stuff the body halfway
16. sew on the stuffed arms to the upper body.
17. fully stuff the body of stitch
18. sew on the head to the body using the excess tail from the body.
19.your stitch is now ready to be loved-up and hugged!